Dan Murphy: What is Dead May Never Die

Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge. Amanda made it across. Did I?

We got out of bed with a fury. We had to get ready quickly and get moving because we were booked for a full-day Game of Thrones tour. We had to get to the city centre to meet for the tour. The meeting point was the Europa Hotel, which happens to be Europe’s most bombed hotel. It opened in 1971, and it’s been bombed 35 times. We left time for breakfast, so we ate there. I wasn’t going to a Kingsmoot on an empty stomach.

After breakfast, we went outside, and eventually the tour operator, Derek, summoned us to load the bus. He checked our name off, and we hopped on. The bus was already packed. Fuck. There weren't any seats together. Double fuck. I knew there would be quite a bit of bus time, so this scenario wasn’t ideal, but we took seats and dealt with it. Life is full of disappointments, and that’s what you do - deal with them. Derek got on the mike, and began a lengthy introduction, and laid down the “rules”. First rule, don’t talk about fight club. Second rule, be on the bus on time. Third rule, the seat you’re in is your seat for the day - no switching. I was surprised that Derek was the tour guide and the driver. I haven’t been on a ton of coach bus tours, but every other one had both. Impressive. Fair play to ya, Derek.

We weaved in and out of the glens of Antrim, and made our first stop at a harbor in a small village where the Waif stabs Arya, and she climbs out of the water. Not terribly exciting.

The next stop was in another small village. There was a memorial to the last animal culled during the Foot and Mouth Outbreak of 2001. A goat named Johann. We walked along the shore and behind a hotel to caves. The fight to the death between Jamie Lannister and Euron, and the birth of Melisandre’s shadow assassin were filmed here.

Johann paid the iron price

Derek said 80% of filming took place in Northern Ireland, most in the Titanic studios in Belfast. It’s been a massive boon for the economy of Northern Ireland, which has suffered from an image problem, and the show is one of the biggest draws they have.

It started raining lightly. I saw about five drops on my window. All of a sudden a woman behind me was shrieking “IT’S RAINING ON THE BUS” “DEREK IT IS RAINING IN THE BUS”. Not true. Derek pulled the bus over. Made his way to the back, and calmly said “it’s not acid. I opened the roof vent because the air conditioning cones weren’t working.” I knew a couple of things for certain. 1. It was hot and stuffy on the bus. 2. Everyone on the bus wanted this woman to be taken by the Others.

Before we arrived at the Dark Hedges, Derek offered simple instructions so everyone could get a good photo. Stop at the fallen tree and spread out. Wait 5 minutes before walking down the road to allow people to get photos. Simple. Helpful. Clear. Well, you've probably seen videos of Black Friday. That’s what it was like. May as well have been at Walmart. Maybe the first person there got a decent photo. It was madness. The lighting didn’t work, so I didn’t really care. I just took it in. People are idiots.

Giants Causeway was our next stop. Derek said there was a shuttle bus for one pound each way. I had a ten I was planning on using as a tip, and that was our only cash, so we walked. It turned out to be a hell of a walk, especially on the way back up. I was sweating like a pig and out of breath, to say the least. We recovered in the visitor center for about 15 minutes, and had chips and water. We lost track of time and rushed to the bus in the pouring rain. We had just a minute to spare.

It was time for a lunch stop. Much needed. Derek had ordered lunch for everyone at a previous stop. All 49 of us filed in to the Fullerton Arms. This place was packed. Probably because it’s near the Carrick-a-Rede rope bridge. Business was booming. Of course, there were no seats. Are you shitting me? We searched and fortunately snatched the two at the end of a table. If I had to pay the iron price to sit next to my wife for lunch, I was prepared. We both had ordered the steak and Guinness pie.

We were the first ones done. Typical, fast-eating Americans. Wrong. We were the smart ones because they had an Iron Throne here that we were going to have all to ourselves for the next few minutes. I was so triggered by the chaos at the Dark Hedges that I knew we had to start playing for keeps. Either you win or you die. There is no middle ground.

Ballantoy Harbor was our next stop. This was used to film Pyke harbor. When Theon meets Yara before he knows who she is. Derek referred to their horseback ride as “just some gentle fumbling between brother and sister.” The harbor was quite the ways down a long and winding road. I almost got hit by a car. I’d say it missed me by three inches. It was raining hard. We made it halfway, saw the harbor then said ok good enough and hiked back up to the bus. Almost everyone was already on the bus. Then the sun came out, and there were rainbows. I see Amanda jumping over people’s seats to get a better photo of the rainbow. Then her and Derek were comparing rainbow photos on their phones while I’m wedged in the back with my elbow lodged in my neighbor’s belly fat being cucked by the tour guide. Seven hells.

We drove past the location of where Renly’s camp was filmed. Where we were first introduced to Brienne of Tarth when she’s fights Loras Tyrell. Also, the Kingsmoot was shot there, and Theon’s baptism when he consecrates his faith to the Drowned God, and receives the kiss of life. What is dead may never die, but rises again harder and stronger.

Approaching the rope bridge, Derek gassed us up by saying due to the winds the rope bridge was closed. “JUST KIDDING IT’S OPEN” Then the bus cheered. I was not cheering. It was a “strenuous” hike, and we were 8 hours into the tour and I had already walked 5 miles today. I checked my Apple Watch. I was mentally preparing my body and mind for one more vigorous test. The hike was 1.1 km. Not that far, but it definitely wasn’t flat.

We received our tickets for the bridge crossing. Now, let me be clear, I love bridges. Everyone knows that. I HATE heights though, and especially ledges. This would involve all of them. A ghastly combination. We started down the rocky path. It had been raining off and on, so it was slick and muddy. The path twisted and turned, up and down over slippery rocky steps. I have a hard time seeing and establishing proper footing, so a treacherous hike with an added element of danger. I just focused on moving forward. The thought crossed my mind about how much of a bitch this would be hiking back, but I had to quickly perish the thought. I would worry about getting back later. Quiet your mind. Keep moving.

Finally, we made it to the queue for the bridge. As we waited in line to cross, my legs were quivering from fatigue, not fear, but, admittedly, I was not excited about it at this point. I was here to cross a bridge, and that’s what was going to happen. I leaned against the wooden rail to conserve whatever energy I could. I didn’t have enough energy to walk a couple of feet and snap photos. It was strenuous and I was sweating, even though it was about 60° with winds 25-35 mph. I wasn’t sure if my blood sugar was low, and it didn’t matter because I didn’t have an emergency sugar supply with me anyway. The anticipation grew and the hype level intensified, and it began to rain. I couldn’t even see the bridge yet. It’s actually kind of hidden in the rocks on the coast between the cliffs. The bridge gatekeepers have each side take turns crossing, and a limited number of people can be on the bridge at one time. On the bridge is where the scene was filmed when Euron kills Balon Greyjoy by tossing him on to the rocks below. Stop thinking about that.

Here we go. It was eventually our time to cross after about fifteen minutes. We ascended the steep slope and steps to the bridge. Amanda was in front of me. Then we stepped on the bridge. I was terrified, but this is what I came here for. I never looked down. I kept my eyes focused in front of me. We are probably half way across. HOLY SHIT. The bridge started swaying up and down and back and forth. My heart froze with dread. Was someone jumping on it or had the wind picked up? I didn’t know, but it was terrifying. I kept putting one foot in front of the other. Focus. Don’t look down. Finally, we made it to the other side. We did it. What a thrill. Now, we had to queue up to go back across. Fortunately, there were benches along the rails, so I could rest my weak and tired legs. We agreed that it was proper scary. Our turn came to go back across, the woman told Amanda to hold because there were too many people on the bridge. She snapped a quick photo(the one above). Back onto the bridge. I knew to expect swaying this time. This time it was less frightening, but I still didn’t look down. We reached the other side, and immediately began the steep ascent up the cliff, and climbed the stairs. I had no time to process the excitement because we had already begun the climb back, but I know the adrenaline boost helped propel me. The climb tested my lungs for sure. Last year, when I had the transplant, I almost died, but I was never scared. Anybody who was there that night could tell you. Today was scary.

Back to the climb, I just focused and pushed through. There was no other choice. I rested on a bench at the top of the stairs because I was breathing so heavy. The hike back seemed to last forever and felt longer. Just as we were getting back, I was sweating and my vision was getting blurry- low blood sugar. Not surprised. There was a small coffee shop near the parking lot, so I got water and chips. It was time to get back on the bus.

We almost left a family of four Americans. They were late and Derek had given repeated warnings about keeping on schedule. We pulled away and then saw them flailing their arms running across the parking lot. They didn’t find it funny, but it wasn’t a joke. The ride back to Belfast was over an hour.

Upon returning to Belfast, I had made plans to meet my cousin Michael for dinner. I told him to pick a place. He suggested Revolución de Cuba. We arrived there at 8. The bouncers wouldn’t let me in. Yes, there were bouncers because this was a club. That apparently served good food. I was denied entry due to wearing “sports bottoms”. I’m not totally sure if it was the joggers or sneakers, probably both. So I texted Michael, who was having trouble getting an Uber because it was marching season in Belfast, and he was staying in a heavily Protestant neighborhood that was jammed up with a Protestant parade. As we stood outside cursing the club, Amanda wanted to stick it to them, so she went over to cancel the reservation. Well, she’s got clout because guess who was all friendly and jokey now? “Come on in, nobody will see what you’re wearing under table.” He asked me to take the cap off and tapped me on the shoulder as I walked in. Ok, buddy.

This place was definitely a club. DJ, strobe lights, loud music. Michael eventually rolled in. We ordered food, too much, and had a grand time shouting at each other over the music. Good Craic.

This day would not have been possible without the transplant - absolutely 100% no chance. That I was able to do it was a miracle. Life is full of possibilities.

Today’s Index

Steps- 19,799

Distance - 8.81 miles

Flights - 35

Bags of chips eaten - 3

Words I’d use to describe Derek- charming, funny

Total photos from iron throne photo shoot - 69

Trip Index

Favorite phrase - takin’ the piss

Times I heard it- 1

Favorite word - ye (what time are ye arriving?)

Times I heard it - too many to count